Thursday, November 14, 2019

Sony STR-DB840

My dad has been a home theater fanatic since the 90’s when the first affordable Dolby Surround kits started to hit the stores. His first one was a ready-in-a-box set but it didn’t take long for him to start building his own vision by replacing the speakers, amp and subwoofer by better quality ones. Because this was a hobby, all the parts were chosen by their success in hi-fi magazines regardless of the price. Since then the technology has come a long way and newer models are more refined and better equipped while the prices have come down but they are still more expensive than ones saved from a trash pile. On top of that the ones bought from a store don’t give me that feeling of accomplishment that the recycled ones do once I get them to work. At this point it might be fair to mention that many of the devices on this blog have given out sooner or later in a way that fixing them wouldn’t be feasible or cost-effective any more.

Having served faithfully for more than a decade, the 5.1 channel amplifier had started to make weird clicking noise and my dad was afraid that it could be a fire hazard. He had already thrown the amplifier on top of a pile of junk headed for the junkyard when I intervened and rescued it. I decided to take the amp home for closer inspection because it had line level RCA-outputs that my own amplifier lacked. I had been using a converter to attach active speakers to speaker outputs and the sound quality was horrendous. Because I assumed the clicking noise was caused by some relays’ old age and dust and dirt accumulated on some contacts, I figured that there was no immediate danger in using the amp. I plugged the newly acquired amp into my existing set-up and just started using it. Because of the line level outputs the sound quality improved dramatically. It took me several months to grow tired of clicking relays.

Finally I detached all the cabels of the amp and opened it up to locate the faulty relays. They were easy to  find, so I started figuring out how get my hands on them from the opposite side of the PCB. To my surprise I realised that Sony had taken the serviceability into account in the design process. On the bottom of the amplifier there was removable hatch that allowed me to inspect the solder joints. A quick glance was enough to find the cause for the clicking. One of the solders on a relay was cracked and that caused it to open circuit seemingly randomly. The fix was fairly easy. I just removed the old solder and re-soldered it. After this the clicking ceased and I was happy for a while.

I would have been happy longer if I had just stuck with my 3.1 arrangement. I wanted to experience the  full surround sound immersion so I added rear speakers to the set-up. Since I didn’t want speaker cabels running across the living room floor, I decided to route them via the ceiling. With my girlfriends’ help I installed cabel trays and hid the cabels there. After two days of hard  work the trays were installed and the rear speakers plugged in. First thing I noticed when testing the new set-up was that the clicking had returned. This mighty have caused my blood pressure to rise slightly but luckily the fix to  this was the same as for the front speakers. When first fixing the relays I didn’t realise that there were dedicated relays for front, rear and  center speakers as well as for the subwoofer. I re-soldered all the relays I could find because those that weren’t cracked yet would crack eventually so I went over all the solders that I could find. The amp has been working flawlessly for well over a year now and I’m happy with it considering the cost and everything.


Thursday, October 24, 2019

Bogner Alchemist Head

After making some new connections I started to acquire music equipment to repair on a more regular basis. This lead me to learn a lot more new stuff about electronics. I haven't had much time for my own projects, now I was handed an interesting problem.

A customer had brought a Bogner Alchemist head to the local music store because it had mysteriously stopped powering up. I took t

he amp in and after a while I had to admit that my skills weren’t up to the task. The power switch had no effect on the head itself but the lights on the foot-switch lit up. This meant that power was running somewhere so all hope was not lost yet.

Autopsy
I was baffled. I took the amp out of its casings and started to eye over the circuits. At some point I noticed that the secondary coil of the power transformer was connected to a wrong place on the circuit board. Moving these two leads to the correct spot brought some life to the nearly dead patient; the power amp tubes started to glow and warm up. Pre-amp was still flatlining and all the lights on the front panel were dark.

After pondering the situation for a while I decided to let the customer know that finding and repairing the fault would take so long that it wouldn’t make much sense since I was working on an hourly rate. I offered to buy the head from him for a  reasonable price knowing that I might be buying just a pile on spare parts. At least this way I wouldn't have to keep looking at the clock all the time while working.

I spent many nights searching for information and studying the circuit board. In terms of efficient working time it must have taken dozens of hours, but all that time I kept learning new things about the inner workings of a tube amplifiers. After a while of going through the amp with a DMM and studying the schematics I noticed the the pre-amp wasn't getting the voltage it needed. The pre-amp tubes require an AC voltage off +3.5V/-3.5V. My measurements showed only +1.6VAC/-1.6VAC going in.

At this point it was again time to take out the schematics and take a good look at where the current flows on the power board section. The circuit feeding the 12AX7’s had two resistors of equal values on both the positive and negative sides of the power feed. These two resistors were connected to each other via potentiometer that controls the voltage going to the tubes.

After this discovery I connected the DMM to one of the sides and started adjusting the potentiometer until it showed about 3.5 volts. As the voltage rose to the desired value, all the lights on the front panel turned on.


The head found its place in a new home
I re-assembled the head and plugged it into my trusty 4*10 bass cabinet the I had designed and built some time earlier. Everything worked just as the user manual said it was supposed to. I was ecstatic since now I had in my hands my very first own tube amp. I was also extremely tired since this project had kept me up for numerous nights in a row. Soon after getting the Bogner fired up, I got a 4*12  guitar cab to pair it with so I could actually hear what it sounded like. I kept this amp for a while as a part of my tool arsenal before eventually trading  it in for something getter suited for my type of music.